It’s been years.
18 March 2020
The last couple of days I have surfed a break that I haven’t surfed for years. The banks are real fun down there and the crowd factor is spread far and wide. It’s a little bigger than yesterday and the direction has turned more ENE due to former TC Gretel. Still there are good waves at most beaches today and I dare say into tomorrow. Have a virus free day. (If you can)