Rubber is overrated. 21 May 2019 Today’s Gallery Yesterday I commented how good is Autumn.  I thought I would test the waters by wear only board shorts this morning for my after shoot surf.  So rubber in conditions like today is totally overrated.  There is a...

Ahhh Autumn. 20 May 2019 Today’s Gallery, How good is Autumn.  Beautiful sunrises, crystal clear and warm water temperature.  Even the waves have been fun and glassy.  There is a nice 2 – 3 foot south east swell this morning so it’s the south facing...

Friday bigness 17 May 2019 Today’s gallery There has been a gradual climb in the wave size towards the back end of this week.  I saw a few solid 4 foot sets come through this morning.  Most were fairly straight but there were a few peaks before the shutdowns....

Bigger but straighter 16 May 2019 Today’s Gallery There has been a gradual building of the surf over the last couple of days.  This morning I did see a couple of 4 foot sets but with a south swell comes a few, well maybe lots of straight hander closeouts.  There...

Early burgers. 14 May 2019. Today’s Gallery Depending on where you surfed, it was either fat burgers or a few straight close outs.  I guess you could practice your JJF end section hit or your cutback and try and get back to some sort of push.  Waves are only in...