Ultimate Autumn day 31 May 2019 Today’s Gallery. It was a late summer a fantastic Autumn and now Winter has come early in these last 2 or 3 days.  With it the waves have jumped up to some 5 foot sets on the open beaches.  But the south west wind is into them as...

Coldest day so far. 30 May 2019, Today’s Gallery There is an icy south wester blowing early this morning.  It was around 9C at 7.00am but the sand felt like 5C.  My toes were even colder.  The waves were fairly small at around 2 foot on the beaches but the south...

It has arrived. 28 May 2019. Today’s Gallery We have gone from yesterday’s shore lapping 1 footers to a good 3 – 4 maybe 5 (on sets) foot, south swell this morning.  It’s real post Autumn weather we are in now.  Forget last week’s 26C...

Up in the smoke. 24 May 2019 Today’s Gallery The smoke haze is back with us this morning.  But what is not with us, are the waves.  It has been on a steady downward trend since Wednesday.  I think I saw a 1 foot set but I’m not sure.   I decided to get a...

Smoke gets in your eyes. 22 May 2019 Today’s Gallery Back burning in the Blue mountains has led to very smoky conditions in the last couple of days.  Although early this morning it was fairly clear.  But you could see it coming like a southerly change but only...

Rubber is overrated. 21 May 2019 Today’s Gallery Yesterday I commented how good is Autumn.  I thought I would test the waters by wear only board shorts this morning for my after shoot surf.  So rubber in conditions like today is totally overrated.  There is a...

Ahhh Autumn. 20 May 2019 Today’s Gallery, How good is Autumn.  Beautiful sunrises, crystal clear and warm water temperature.  Even the waves have been fun and glassy.  There is a nice 2 – 3 foot south east swell this morning so it’s the south facing...

Friday bigness 17 May 2019 Today’s gallery There has been a gradual climb in the wave size towards the back end of this week.  I saw a few solid 4 foot sets come through this morning.  Most were fairly straight but there were a few peaks before the shutdowns....

Bigger but straighter 16 May 2019 Today’s Gallery There has been a gradual building of the surf over the last couple of days.  This morning I did see a couple of 4 foot sets but with a south swell comes a few, well maybe lots of straight hander closeouts.  There...

Early burgers. 14 May 2019. Today’s Gallery Depending on where you surfed, it was either fat burgers or a few straight close outs.  I guess you could practice your JJF end section hit or your cutback and try and get back to some sort of push.  Waves are only in...